Category Archives: Ethiopia 2016

An Ethiopian Odyssey: Day 10

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The whole team, together! An extraordinary group! Thank you to Vast Ethiopia Tours for providing such great drivers — and the best cook ever, Micky (far left).

Bump, bump, bump in the truck we go. It’s a two day drive back to the airport in Jimma. Stop one is Mizan, but this is a day that is about the journey: The magic all happened on the road.

The four painters all travel together, as we can then stop for an “art moment” spotted on the road anytime. Our motto is: “Art First.”

We start out a bit sad, having left our magical little paradise. But it’s not long before Mr. DJ (Yacob) puts on some tunes, and we call for a truck dance party. We have many of these along the way to keep our spirits and energy high. And at the end of the day, if this journey is not fun and filled with joy, we have done something wrong.

Our first stop is to buy pineapples off the side of the road. Or, actually, in the middle of the road. Always an adventure. Those pineapples turned out to be the juiciest, tastiest pineapples I’ve ever had!

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How many pineapples? 11? How sweet and delicious they were!

Soon we are stopping at a little grass area where our fabulous cook, Micky, cooks us our last meal. It is delicious, but we have an audience. You’re never alone in Ethiopia.  Many children and teenagers carrying huge bundles of wood are passing by.

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Firewood carriers. That should never be anyone’s reality — that’s it, that is all, never.

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A much needed rest. Too young for so heavy a burden, in more ways than one.

The contrast of beauty and heartbreak are never far apart, and there is no part of me that wishes to romanticize poverty, something that photos can easily do. It’s a hard life, make no mistake. Yet, there is profound beauty, simplicity and joy — a balancing act, for sure.

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We try to pick up these huge bundles the children are carrying. I cannot, and the men can barely pick them up. They are heavy, my friends, and life is not fair. Let us all do all we can to try to make it a bit more fair if we can.  And that, after all, is what this is all about. Education and literacy. Supporting Ethiopia Reads and the wonderful work they have been doing: four schools and a library in every region.

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Portraits from the road.

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We spend the night in Mizan, too tired to do more than laugh and tell stories over dinner — and connect. Yes, that kind of connect; we have wi-fi, and we laugh at the downside of having our faces buried in our phones. But we do, each of one of us, reconnect with our world, our loved ones, Facebook. And so it goes…

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Yacob Bizuneh’s piece based on or addiction to technology seems to fit as we all sit around the table with our faces buried in our phones.

An Ethiopian Diary: Day 8

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A part of Jane Kurtz’s childhood. She passed this way on her home to Maji. It is a bit enchanting!

The adventure today would bring, we did not know. Thankfully, we woke up and were painting this morning, as the rest the day would have us immersed in one unexpected experience after another, each more enriching than the next, and one view after another, each more breathtaking than the next. It was just one of those magical days but everything from morning to putting my head on the pillow was just perfect.


A hike to a waterfall at the bottom of a valley, following the sound of rushing water. Each step down is a slice of magic, the climb back up worth every breathless step. We are above 8,000 feet up, and the air is thin and crisp. The photos can not do this place justice, as we are finding is true of most of this area. So mountainous and green, so lush and tropical.

Just when we feel we all may be on beauty overload, we hop in the truck for our bump, bump, bumping next adventure. Nifas Bir, a tiny divide between two deep and lush valleys. I’m told I can see Kenya and the Sudan from here, but all I see are extreme, luscious and ever-enchanting landscapes.

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Nifas Bir, where it is said you can see all the way to Kenya and the Sudan. Either way, it took my breath away.

The mountains seem to roll on forever, little strips of hazy blue the farther away they get. Somewhere out there is Kenya, the Sudan, the whole continent of Africa.

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More magic

I don’t really care, though; I’m right here, right now, among my team, the lovely people of Ethiopia and a landscape that would be worth the long journey here all on its own. I am happy here in the highlands of Ethiopia, and that is enough.

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This kind of beauty … Electricity? Water? Nope, I’m good, just leave me right here!

 

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On the road home from Nifas Bir, we decide to stop in the town square, which is bustling. Bring along a Polaroid and the party is on!

What a thrill watching people see their own image. By some of the reactions we got, some might have been seeing the first photo of themselves. Laughter, glee — and almost a mob scene. Never did I feel afraid, but my bodyguards (other Odyssey team members)  might have. Everyone wanted a photo of themselves, of course. I obliged as much as I could. Certainly, it broke the ice, and made for some connecting. My Odyssey teammates got a ton of great photos of the magic.

Warriors, kids, village elders, moms, sisters, friends — everyone took part, and the joy was all mine. Many times, when a “forengie”(Amharic for foreigner) shows up at a rural market, there is a bit of a standoff, each side of the cultural divide scoping out the other, uncertain, not remembering we are all more alike than different. But when you show up with something to offer, it is different: You are not just a observer, a taker of photos, but now a giver of images. And as artists, this is what we do: We put images out into the world for ourselves and others. And a big cheers to that!