Tag Archives: travel

If You Go: Florence, Part 1

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There are a few things that if you go to Florence and do not do, you must lie to me and tell me you did do them. I’m not an expert on the city, I’m just an aficionado, and that can be almost as good. So if you want a few insider ideas from a gal who loves the city, I’m your girl, and read on. Even if you’re not planning a trip, virtual travel can be rewarding, so I say, still read on!

My recent trip to Florence was my fourth visit to the magical Renaissance city, and I’ve come to appreciate its second and third layers beyond the Duomo (and yet, the Duomo is not to be missed). But I want you to think of the city as a multi-layered art-, food- and wine-lover’s paradise, and you do need to peel back the layers.

Italy simply put cannot be lumped together as one. Yes, it’s a single country, and good food, wine and an appreciation of art and beauty can be expected anywhere; however, the country was not united until 1871. Each area has its distinct characteristics and time in history.

Florence’s heyday was the Renaissance. While its rise to power started long before, in the Middle Ages, with Gothic art and Dante’s Divine Comedy, it was the Renaissance when everything came together and Florence became a force in and of itself.

In visiting this city, it is important to keep in mind that Florence, like nowhere else on earth, is the Renaissance. It’s worth doing your homework on this art movement before you go. I recommend Rick Steves’ guide book and TV show as a wonderful art history reference. Steves is an avid lover of art history, and he covers the important details with shocking accuracy — with entertainment thrown in for good measure. For art and history lovers, his book “Europe 101: History & Art for the Traveler” is as good as my college art history textbook and far more interesting. (Or, humbly stated, check out my Florence blogs, where I try to cover the highlights of the Renaissance without too much boring detail.)

So now that you have a reasonable understanding of the Renaissance and you know the difference between Gothic-pointed arches and spires as compared to Renaissance-rounded arches and domes, clean, simple lines and Humanism, you’re ready to visit Florence.

There were no sites I went to that I considered a bore or that could be easily overlooked; they are all fantastic. If your guidebook recommends it, it will be worth your while. But I highly, highly, recommend a guide. Rick Steves lists several in his guidebooks, and TripAdvisor has referrals. There is so much information packed into each site they can almost come alive for you if you have the “key.” A good guide is that key — unlock it! It’s money you will never regret spending. I also strongly recommend going off-season and for several days. Anything shorter than four nights, leaving three full days, is cheating yourself.

So now for my absolutely favorite Florentine experiences. Please, please, please make the effort to find Pizzicheria Antonio Porrati restaurant on the Piazza di S.Pier Maggiore. You can find it on Trip Advisor and the address is 30/R., Bergo Degli Albizi. This is a lunch or late-day snack spot. Check online for hours and grab a table outside and let the folks behind the counter feed you.  Pizzicheri is quite the experience, with the most smiling jolly owner you could ever want to meet.  Don’t forget to ask for the house wine; it’s good — and a dollar a glass. Buon Appetito and Salute!

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In art, you have to tell me you went to see The Cenacolo of Sant Apollonia and The Last Supper fresco by Andrea del Castagno. It’s a minor sight — it most likely is not in your guide book — but it’s so worth it. You will find it on Trip Advisor #52 of 224 sights.

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So why am I sending you here? It’s a quiet convent in Florence where you can walk right in and be almost alone with a uniquely Florentine Renaissance masterpiece. The fresco is in nearly perfect condition and is the reason you’re here. It’s peaceful, there are no crowds and you can grab a seat and let this work of art fill you. Castagno is a early author of the Renaissance, and his work can only be found in Florence, due to his death at the young age of 26. I could cite for you many reasons this work is important, from its Florentine Renaissance characteristics, like strong use of drawing and each disciple depicting a different emotion (hello, humanism), to the marble backdrop with its nod to Ancient Rome. But this is not why I send you here, I send you here to let the preciousness and beauty wash over you. Behold the Renaissance.

To be continued…

Florence, Epilogue: From the Mountains to the Sea

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Some places are just too beautiful to try to describe. When the sounds of the waves and birds mix with the glorious turquoise and blues of the water, the greens of nature spilling into the Mediterranean Sea, and you can smell the salty air, pines and fermentation of winemaking all at once — sigh. It’s just too much for words. Now add the seafood and wine of the area. The locals talking rapidly in that lyrical Italian language, hands in full swing to add impact, as if it’s needed. It’s a little slice of magic.

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We had arrived in the Cinque Terre, still full from our time in the mountains. My husband, an avid swimmer, led us right into the sea upon arrival. We literally dipped right into the Mediterranean, welcoming the warmth of the area. After a long drive from the cool mountain air, we soaked up this new and different region, both mountains and sea beloved by us both.

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It’s the curse of a painter to witness all of this beauty. To put all that we see, smell, feel and taste into our art. It is also what drives us. This desire to communicate without words. But where to begin?

Without judgment or comparison. You just start. Moving color into color and arranging images from your mind’s memory and imagination. Here is the joy of my work. You must really look at things. Art teaches us how to see, but we do this always with our personal filters.

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I cannot put into words the link between art and travel, but for me, it’s intrinsic. As an art history buff, it also follows a long lineage. Artists throughout time have been infected with the same bug I have: wanderlust.

The backdrop here is vineyards on mountainsides, spilling into the sea. Tiny towns (five, to be exact, or “cinque” in Italian) that are as colorful as they come. A minister of good taste insures this. True story: In Italy, they have ministers of good taste. Have I mentioned I love this country? It’s an artist’s paradise. And for my stay here, we hiked, swam, ate and drank all things local. The seafood caught that very day, the wine made from grapes harvested from the soil we sat upon. An adventure in delight.

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While this area is magic, be warned: It is discovered. If you don’t mind thick crowds, go. Me? I’m a bit of an introvert with a busy mind that craves space to think and breathe. The crowds have almost — almost — ruined this glorious place. I was here in October 1997, and it was a quiet, backwater place, and so delightful. The only thing that’s changed is tour buses and cruise ships full of people, and the towns, still so tiny, bulge under the pressure. If you do go, enjoy, soak it up, but you will not be alone, not even close.

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That said, I have no complaints about my visit. My artist soul is so full upon arriving home. I am itching to revisit these places in my studio. Stay tuned, and thank you — thank you so much for coming along with me and giving me an audience with which I can share my deep passions for art, art history and travel. You all rock!

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