Monthly Archives: September 2014

Florence, Day 5: What Can One Day Teach You? And Other Reflections on Life and Learning

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The sun rose on a warm and glorious day in Tuscany. After sleeping more (much-needed) hours than I can count, I woke up good as new, excited and ready to work outside in Florence. What can I learn today?

My mentor here in Italy is Enrico, a kind and patient teacher — thankfully, because, well, my prior training and the rules of Italy are different. For example, when I studied art in Mexico, my teacher would say, “Now that you are done looking, close your eyes and think how you feel. I don’t care so much what you see as how you feel about it. Now paint that.” I suspect if it were not for that very long and extremely well-established art history here, Italians with all of their wild, impassioned ways would be like this.

You see, Mexico does not have Michelangelo to live up to. But as my winemaker friends have explained to me, when you’ve been doing things a certain way for literally hundreds of years, you do it a certain way. There is only one way to make a Chianti, a Brunello, a Barolo. And so it is with art.

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My local winemaker friends say they have a freedom that a winemaker in Italy or other well-established regions don’t: They can experiment. And so it is with me.

I have to convince Enrico that it’s perfectly OK for me to leave that unsightly pillar out of my drawing, or forget about the big wall to my left, blocking my view of the city. He says, “But it is there.” Still, he’s patient with me; he’s very talented and kind, so I pay attention.

I, for my part, came here in a large part for the discipline. How do they teach art where they have been masters for so very long? So I stretch my comfort zone. I do as I’m told (mostly), and I’m growing. I’m using my pencil more than I have since college, and I’m slowing down. It’s relaxing on one hand, uncomfortable on the other. But isn’t the old saying, “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone”?

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Florence, Day 4: Travel: The Good, the Bad and the Sick

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It finally caught up with me…

The day started normal enough. I had been arguing with my stomach, which had been a bit upset. But on this day, I left the house early to start my one-on-one plein air lessons. Like all of those cute kids whose adorable faces are filling up my Facebook feed, I was going back to school. A bit nervous about how I would manage all my, er, stuff — easel, paint, chair, etc. — but I was off.

My kind teacher informed me upon meeting him that today would be only a sketchbook. A sigh of relief.

The morning was colder than expected and windy, but we braved the elements anyway, heading to the Piazza Signoria and the Loggia dei Lanzi. Once a platform for public debates, the Medici decided great art was more important than free speech and turned this space into a tribute to sculpture. From this vantage point, you can see the whole square, and my teacher, Enrico, took me back to my college days again, as I used my outstretched arm in combination with my pencil to measure. It’s something my studio work just doesn’t require, but it is such a good discipline. Getting back to the basics is good.

En route to and from school, Enrico shared little bits of history with me, including a little chiseled-out profile on the side of the Palazzo Vecchio attributed to Michelangelo himself. He’s said to have whipped it out to prove his identity during the bonfire of the vanities (another story for another time), but how I enjoy seeing little treasures like this. How many times have I walked by this and not ever noticed this?

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I can wrap the story up here, as my ill feeling overtook me after lunch. I think all of my dashing around before leaving, jet lag, running around here and the strong coffee finally took over, and I spent the rest of the day in bed, sick. But I slept more than I have in weeks and woke up this morning ready to face more: more art lessons and more Florence. And yes, body, I got the message; I will not push myself so hard. I will remember my rest and dilute my coffee like a good American. And my apologies to all of you food and wine lovers. It’s just crackers and water for me today. I’m not one to tempt the gods to take any more revenge on me.

Cheers, or not,

Stephanie