Category Archives: On the Michigan Wine Trail

Leelanau County: A 500-Word Guide to Experiencing the Splendor

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Sleeping Bear Trail

My breath was completely taken away, I was in complete awe and I also wondered: Am I on the moon? Or is it the Sahara? But no, I was simply trekking Sleeping Bear Trail out of Glen Haven, Michigan. You need to pinch yourself — as is often necessary when in Leelanau County.

I’ve had a longtime love affair with the area. Leelanau — the wine trail, in particular — is the subject of the vast majority of my paintings. It’s a special kind of magic, with the rolling hills covered in vines that eventually become the wine that has become so well known and respected.

Have you been yet? It’s a place where the people are truly as extraordinary as the landscape, and if you’re lucky enough to meet a wine pro who’s ready to fill you in on the wine, the history and the story of the land — well, it would not be unusual in this area.

And oh, the hiking. Sigh. The hiking in this area is just spectacular, and a perfect activity to balance out the wine tasting and great food the area has to offer. Favorites of locals are the above-mentioned Sleeping Bear Trail, as well as Alligator Hill, Empire Bluff trail and Pyramid Point, but honestly there are so many, I feel I’ve only begun to scratch the surface. Go explore and tell me what you find.

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Village Cheese Shanty

One cannot live on wine alone. Can you? So where to eat now that you’re, er, well-hydrated and bursting with the beauty of the area but in need of fuel? Here are a few favorites, but it’s hard to go wrong up there. Every local I have ever met from the area has sent me to The Cheese Shanty in Fishtown for lunch. Now I’m sending you. The sandwiches are out of this world. I always ask for the sandwich maker’s choice and have them surprise me every time. The surprise is always pleasant. (By the way: If time allows while you’re in Fishtown and you love unique boutique experiences, stop in The Crib.) On the food topic, 9 Bean Rows in Suttons Bay is a must stop on every trip. It’s a place you will crave and return to, again and again. I also adore the Riverside Inn restaurant. But there are so many great foodie experiences, and many that are worth the drive to Traverse City proper. But you don’t have to leave Leelanau if you don’t want to, and often I don’t.

By no means is this any sort of complete list; it’s just what I’ve picked up on my many travels to the region. And it’s lacking in which wineries to visit because each one must be experienced; each has its own flavor. The most important thing is to go. Go experience this treasure that Michigan has to offer in wine, food and landscape. If you do not go, you must lie to me and say you did go — it’s that good!

A Plein Air Day on the Leelanau Peninsula

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The Iris Farm on M-72

Muchacho Libre is my assistant this week “On the Michigan Wine Trail.” Well, not so much my assistant as the one who gets sand in my paint, but he’s cute, so he can stay.

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Muchacho the great assistant — err, maybe just a really solid playmate.

Thinking of his needs, I started the day with a hike in my beloved Pyramid Point. I hiked in with some watercolors and my sketchbook, stopping along the way to take in the beauty and make little studies for use in the studio later. Muchacho, for his part, was in his glory.

Pyramid Point

Pyramid Point

It was a joy to just pull off to the side of the road when something struck me and make sketches so I can jar my memory later.

Sketching the Leelanau Narrows

Sketching the Leelanau Narrows

But the ultimate joy in working on location is to pull up to a stunning sight, haul out the paints and plant yourself for a spell — and that is exactly what I did at the Iris Farm on M-72. A friend tipped me off to this glorious spot, and I spent several hours on a what turned out to be a gorgeous day, painting from my immediate impressions of what stretched before me.

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Another treasured day on my magic peninsula, right here in Pure Michigan!