Tag Archives: tuscany

Florence, Day 7: The Best Laid Plans and Other Hiccups Along the Way

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Guide book writer Rick Steves, of whom I’m a unabashed longtime fan, says the key to great travel is “be fanatically positive and militantly optimistic.” I say, “Hear, hear.”

Today I set out for the Villa Gamberaia in Settignano, a small town in the hills just outside of a Florence. I heard it described as the eighth wonder of the world — wouldn’t you want to go? A quiet day painting in the Tuscan hills. Yes, please!

It’s Saturday today and I could say I deserve a rest, but painting is rest for me, so I packed my supplies and with a smile on my face, headed out.

After asking the group of men who run the busyard where exactly Bus 10 could be picked up, they graciously pointed my way, but not before telling me how beautiful I looked today. I love this country. Italian men, I have heard, have won Europe’s award for most improved, and it’s true; 20 years ago, they were in my face about it. Now they only graciously boost your ego and send you on your way — eyes following you, yes, but no longer a whole person following you. Still, if a group of American men acted in this way, you’d be completely freaked out. But it’s perfectly all right here; this, after all, is Italy.

But errr, I digress. I’m off to the “eighth wonder of the world” to paint. From Settignano’s town square, it’s a lovely walk through the Tuscan hills, with glimpses of Florence lying below in the distance, playing peek a boo with my good mood.

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Arriving at the Villa was confusing, it appeared closed?  The posted hours verified it open, so I rang the bell, someone said something to me I did not understand, and the door opened. So, naturally, I entered.

The man waving his hands inside and making his way towards me, however, did not look inviting. (Note: he was not Italian.) “No, Madame, we are not open, closed for event, wedding.” In the name of all things holy, really? ‘Cause I just came an awfully long way… All right, it was only 20-25 minutes by bus and a glorious 10-minute walk, but I’m here, and I want to paint. Are you sure? A wedding? Today?

“Yes, Madame, closed, wedding. Maybe Monday?” Maybe Monday? Mama Mia!

Well, back to Plan B. A simple afternoon at the Boboli gardens. And so it was a hour and a half later I found myself at the Boboli, to tired to paint. A wee siesta on the grass and then much exploring.

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A delightful lunch at Pitti Palace cafe and a evening on the Piazza della Signoria with this local white wine I can’t spell or pronounce but promise to find out for all of you.

Time to call it a wrap. The optimist in me says it was a really good day. A day of rest? No, but I once read Saturdays were for adventure, and adventure it was!

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Florence, Day 5: What Can One Day Teach You? And Other Reflections on Life and Learning

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The sun rose on a warm and glorious day in Tuscany. After sleeping more (much-needed) hours than I can count, I woke up good as new, excited and ready to work outside in Florence. What can I learn today?

My mentor here in Italy is Enrico, a kind and patient teacher — thankfully, because, well, my prior training and the rules of Italy are different. For example, when I studied art in Mexico, my teacher would say, “Now that you are done looking, close your eyes and think how you feel. I don’t care so much what you see as how you feel about it. Now paint that.” I suspect if it were not for that very long and extremely well-established art history here, Italians with all of their wild, impassioned ways would be like this.

You see, Mexico does not have Michelangelo to live up to. But as my winemaker friends have explained to me, when you’ve been doing things a certain way for literally hundreds of years, you do it a certain way. There is only one way to make a Chianti, a Brunello, a Barolo. And so it is with art.

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My local winemaker friends say they have a freedom that a winemaker in Italy or other well-established regions don’t: They can experiment. And so it is with me.

I have to convince Enrico that it’s perfectly OK for me to leave that unsightly pillar out of my drawing, or forget about the big wall to my left, blocking my view of the city. He says, “But it is there.” Still, he’s patient with me; he’s very talented and kind, so I pay attention.

I, for my part, came here in a large part for the discipline. How do they teach art where they have been masters for so very long? So I stretch my comfort zone. I do as I’m told (mostly), and I’m growing. I’m using my pencil more than I have since college, and I’m slowing down. It’s relaxing on one hand, uncomfortable on the other. But isn’t the old saying, “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone”?

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